Is $3,000 insanely high for an US Philippine 10 centavo in MS66
Justhavingfun
Posts: 835 ✭
Recently a Philippine dealer friend of mine got flayed alive on one of these threads for following his instincts and my advice and pricing a US-Philippine 10 centavo in MS 66 (NGC) for $3,000. It was insanely too high, according to the thread master.
Well, the coin was a beaut and I lacked a nice pop top of that date out here in Asia, so I was happy to scarf it up at that $3k, and after a proper (or improper) amount of oogling and gloating, I stuck it in my safety deposit box. And I said on that thread, that the thread master would probably never see that price for the coin again.
So imagine my amusement when today, out of the blue, a state-side dealer wrote to me offering the same date in the same MS66 (PCGS) -- for $500 MORE than my friend had been attacked for charging ($3,500 in all).
Hey you fellow-US-Philippine collectors -- wake up and smell the coffee. It's not the price that was insane. It's the belief that you can get these extraordinarily rare and beautiful US coins for one-tenth to one-fifth their value. I got these coins at those prices -- 10 years ago. But them days are gone forever.
And the prices are just beginning to rise as these coins gain recognition as US coins. They're by far the scarcest of all 20th century US coins -- and they're selling for 5% to 10% of the comparable prices for their US counterparts.
Moreover, Mr. Ilolokano, a newcomer to these threads, also points out that the many American-Filipino intermarriages is adding to the collector base, Sheesh, when the kids of these marriages start growing up, they're going to want these coins which so perfectly represent their parentage. We're in for some interesting times as the inevitable increase in demand drives the prices of these rarities beserk.
Enjoy yourselves,
Just Having Fun
Well, the coin was a beaut and I lacked a nice pop top of that date out here in Asia, so I was happy to scarf it up at that $3k, and after a proper (or improper) amount of oogling and gloating, I stuck it in my safety deposit box. And I said on that thread, that the thread master would probably never see that price for the coin again.
So imagine my amusement when today, out of the blue, a state-side dealer wrote to me offering the same date in the same MS66 (PCGS) -- for $500 MORE than my friend had been attacked for charging ($3,500 in all).
Hey you fellow-US-Philippine collectors -- wake up and smell the coffee. It's not the price that was insane. It's the belief that you can get these extraordinarily rare and beautiful US coins for one-tenth to one-fifth their value. I got these coins at those prices -- 10 years ago. But them days are gone forever.
And the prices are just beginning to rise as these coins gain recognition as US coins. They're by far the scarcest of all 20th century US coins -- and they're selling for 5% to 10% of the comparable prices for their US counterparts.
Moreover, Mr. Ilolokano, a newcomer to these threads, also points out that the many American-Filipino intermarriages is adding to the collector base, Sheesh, when the kids of these marriages start growing up, they're going to want these coins which so perfectly represent their parentage. We're in for some interesting times as the inevitable increase in demand drives the prices of these rarities beserk.
Enjoy yourselves,
Just Having Fun
Jefferson nickels, Standing Libs, and US-Philippines rock
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cool thread and info, thanks! it is ironic you bring up these points, as i was just thinking of doing research into adding one to my collection. I would like a larger (crown/dollar size), and in a reasonable condition (MS63 ish?). what should i look for, and where is the best place to start my search (ie: does any dealers/auction houses specialize in these). thanks for any input on these beauties!
Doug
<< <i>Phillipino one peso is crown size, 1903-1906 is a very nice design. >>
good thanks! i almost said 'peso', but was thinking that was the wrong demonination for Phillipino/US coins. thanks!
Doug
<< <i>Phillipino one peso is crown size, 1903-1906 is a very nice design. >>
this one has a nice look (toning)
this proof has seen better days (PF60), but the toning adds some eye appeal. Are the proof versions of these quite a bit more rare than the business strikes?
Yes, the large-sized pesos -- as ClarkBar04 points out -- were minted from 1903 through 1906. The 1903 and 03's are fairly common in MS60 to 62, but start getting hard and costly in Choice Unc. No gem 03s that I'm aware of. The 1905-S is a killer in any grade of unc, and the 1906-S is super rare even in AU.
So that leaves the 1904 and the 1904-S for you. The 1904-S is the easiest in low grade unc. (Throught MS63). You should be about to get a nice 1904-S in 63 for $150 to $200; maybe $250 if it's particularly nice.
The 1904 is the easiest in gem unc. and a coin of that date, graded MS65 by PCGS, recently sold on eBay for slightly more than $900. The price surprised me. Was more than I thought it was worth. But at lesat that gives you the ball park for the least expensive Peso (either large or small) in gem.
But you have to be careful buying the 1904 in gem, because unscrupulous dealers advertise the coin as rare. Or the rarest, because its mintage (10,000 or so) is far lower than the mintage of the other dates which were all minted well into 6 or 7 figures.
But the 04's were minted under special circumstances, and unlike the other dates where the survival rate is miniscule, the survival rate of the 1904(noS) was huge. So the mintage is low, but it's deceitful to call the coin rare and try to get rare coin prices for it.
I hope this helps.
Enjoy yourself,
Just Having Fun.
You have to understand historical events to understand the conditional rarities, as well as rarities not reflected in mintage figures. First, the 1906s Peso is probably the most dificult to obtain. That is due to the fact that Philippine Pesos from 1903 to 1906 actually contained more silver than a US Silver Dollar, and in 1906 the price of silver rose dramatically. Since the exchange rate of pesos to dollars was fixed at 2 pesos to a dollar, nearly all 1906 pesos were immediately exchanged for the silver value, and as a result were melted.
The same rise in silver prices also caused a lot of the 1903 to 1905 issues to get melted as well.
In 1907, silver content was reduced to 75% and the size was reduced as well. This made for a much harder alloy, and finding full head details on coinage from 1907 to 1912 is similar to finding full head Liberty Quarters. After 1912, no more pesos were minted, but they continued in circulation until WWII. This has lead to greater circulation wear than might otherwise be expected.
When the Japanese invaded in 1942, all silver coinage in the banks, (and much of it that was in private hands), was confiscated and shipped to Japan to finance their war effort. Prior to the invasion, much of the silver currency which had not yet been shipped to the US in anticipation of the invasion, was dumped into the sea to deny the Japanese the advantage. (This is why you see so much "sea-salvaged" coinage being auctioned.) US-PI coinage of 1944 and 1945 had to replace all this lost coinage, and it is very very common. In fact, it is the most common.
Adding to the already greater than typical wear of all US-PI coinage is the environment of the Philippines, salty air, high heat, high humidity. Such is not condusive to conservation of Gem Uncirculated coins, (currency is even further degraded by such). So many coins which have high mintages can be very expensive in MS65 or higher, but if you can afford it, that is where the most extreme price increases can be expected.
If you wanted one example for your collection, selection is dependent on your budget. Getting a 1906s Pesos in Uncirculated condition is practically impossible even now for most that aren't in JHF's collecting league, so look at the prices of 1904 Philadelphia Mint Pesos. Mintage of these is far lower than any other silver 20th century US coinage meant for circulation, and yet prices still remain somwhat reasonable, though I have yet to obtain one. If the price of that coin is too high for your budget, then do as I have done, and look for 1904 Philadelphia Mint 50, 20 and 10 Centavos coins. Mintage for these is the same as for the peso, but I can still afford them.
You might also consider the 1928/7M 20 centavos Mule, for several reasons. It was minted at Manila mint, (a US Mint, and the only one outside the continental US). It was a mule, minted with the obverse die of the 1928 5 centavos, since the sizes of the two coins were very close. It was the only intentional mule, and it had a limited mintage of only 100,000 coins. The small denomination and the fact that it was the only 20 centavos minted that year ensured that it saw good circulation. They are extremely reasonably priced in lower grades, but prices begin to rise dramatically at XF and above. Get one at least in XF, get it in AU if you can, and if you find one within your budget that is uncirculated, by all means get it quickly.
Finally, be aware that a great number of US-PI coinage has been cleaned, and much has been harshly cleaned. Perhaps this is due to the primary collecting group (until recently) being uninformed Filipinos. If you find one that is completely natural, be prepared to pay above book value, and depending upon the coin and condition, you may have to pay well above book value. Personally, I use the 2007 Red Book plus 25% as my assessment for fair value for a problem free coin for most issues.
There exists much to recommend this category to collectors, and I strongly believe it has the greatest potential for short term increase in value. And get this... Obtaining a COMPLETE collection of every single coin intended for general circulation is still, technically, within the reach of most collectors, but not for very much longer.
The primary difficulty is FINDING conditional rarities that are actually for sale!
Such a coin would fit the category of coin I described in the previous post.
And JBF, did you jump on the rare opportunity to own that other MS66 10 centavo?
"Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall find; knock, and it shall be opened unto you." -Luke 11:9
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to check them out.
She has the 1907 One Peso-I would grade it a VF
Doogy, here is a web site that is not yet finished, and not fully fuctional at this time, but you are invited to inquire as to the certified coins listed. Eventually I believe they will host auctions, since there seems to be a tab for that purpose. And the MS66 1919s Ten Centavos sold for $3,000. I think I know who purchased it. Anyway, here is the link. I have it bookmarked myself.
PhilippineCoins.Com
Chascoin, that centavo has strange coloration. If it is natural, I'd be curious as to the cause, and it would likely be worth a premium. It does not appear to have full hair details, but that is quite common for weaker strikes. It may be just that it doesn't show up in the picture, but if it has full hair details and full breast feather details on the reverse, (where the date is located - another unique characteristic of US-PI coins), then it is worth an additional premium. Standard MS60 valuation is ballpark $30, MS63 ballpark is $60, while Gem and above is in JHF's court. He is most likely to know the population totals for PCGS and NGC of 1928M One Centavo coins. I could only guess, but I'd guess much higher than the $60 for MS63.
Justhavingfun, you provided so much useful information regarding the 1903, 1903s, 1904, 1904s and 1906s Pesos in high grade, and your caution regarding Gem 1904 Pesos was news to me, so it was especially welcome. But what about the 1905s Pesos (straight and curved serifs) and their relative availability (or scarcity) in the various uncirculated grades? I hate to ask, since I feel like I should be grateful for the information you provided (I am), but if you wouldn't mind adding that extra bit of information, we could all have a complete picture for the large size pesos from 1903 to 1906 in the higher grades. Perhaps you will accept the burden that you are among very few who would actually know from years of personal experience, and it would be very helpful to the rest of us who hope to get an advance jump on cherry picking these items before it becomes common numismatic knowledge. It isn't exactly cheating or dishonest to seek an advantage, is it? Thanks in advance for your patience and indulgence.
I want to thank you both for the fascinating and insightful information about these beautiful coins! now that i'm armed with a little more knowledge, i'm going to take a look at the marketplace and see what turns up. thank you both!
Doug
No silver coins were produced for circulation at the Philadelphia Mint in 1904. All of the 10, 20, and 50 Centavos and Pesos struck that year were made to fill an order for SPECIAL MINT SETS which was made through "official channels" by noted numismatist Farran Zerbe. 10,000 sets of the 1904 coinage were delivered to Zerbe who then placed them for sale at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition which was held in Saint Louis that year. The sets were sold at the Philippine exhibit.
Only 3,254 sets were sold in St. Louis, with the remaining coins being sent to the Philippine Treasury where another 500 sets were sold. The remaining 6,246 sets were then put into general circulation.
Many of the surviving mint set coins resemble proofs and early strikes are very deceptive. The Mint also produced 1,355 Proof sets for sale to collectors making a total of only 11,355 coins of each silver denomination. These are by far the lowest mintage of all regular issue U.S. Philippine coins, however the manner in which they were sold has resulted in a high survival rate of the coins in MS-60 or better condition.
The USPI Type Set I'm working on has an example of the 1904 Ten, Twenty and Fifty Centavos coins as well as a 1904 Peso. If you click on the small image it will take you to a larger image. Please don't flame me for the obverse and reverse labels as I am well aware the shield side is the obverse. Since almost all USPI coins are slabbed with the shield side facing the back of the slab (Normally the obverse of the coin faces the front of the slab), I labeled the images using that convention and have not felt like spending the amount of time it will take to modify the website.
But is the shield side really the obverse?
I (respectfully) would contend that it is not.
Again, allow me to express my thanks for putting up your type set for public view.
IloiloKano: You really know your stuff. But my 1 centavo is certified by PCGS as MS65 RB. It's more brown than red, but the red highlights do come thru nicely when you're holding it. The odd color is probably just reflective of my photography skills. I think I paid around $60, so if you say it's worth about $60, that's o.k. by me. here's the other side:
I'll send a PayPal payment of $90 for it right now if you agree!
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
<< <i>Recently a Philippine dealer friend of mine got flayed alive on one of these threads for following his instincts and my advice and pricing a US-Philippine 10 centavo in MS 66 (NGC) for $3,000. It was insanely too high, according to the thread master.
Well, the coin was a beaut and I lacked a nice pop top of that date out here in Asia, so I was happy to scarf it up at that $3k, and after a proper (or improper) amount of oogling and gloating, I stuck it in my safety deposit box. And I said on that thread, that the thread master would probably never see that price for the coin again.
So imagine my amusement when today, out of the blue, a state-side dealer wrote to me offering the same date in the same MS66 (PCGS) -- for $500 MORE than my friend had been attacked for charging ($3,500 in all). >>
The reason I beleived it to be high Mr. JHF is that there aren't to many people collecting complete U.S. Philippine uncirculated sets right now, but instead more people are focusing on collecting these coins as type sets. That is why I beleive the 1903 MS66 10 centavo went for around $500 when it had a pop of only 1 in both PCGS and NGC. Just the other week an NGC MS64 1904-S Peso went for around $475. It only had a pop of 2/0 in NGC and a PCGS pop of 2/1. Why didn't this coin sell for more? Seems kind of rare in this grade to me. Your thoughts?
Regards,
Noncents
"I not only use all the brains that I have, but all that I can borrow."
Woodrow Wilson (1856 - 1924)
I give away money. I collect money.
I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.
<< <i>I have read where there are far more gem 1904 10, 20 and 50 peso. I never seem to see any at shows. Anyone have a gem that they could share a picture? >>
bidask,
Yes, a 1904 coin is easier to find in gem. A 1904-S in gem is almost unheard of. If you want to check out some U.S. Philippine coins, go to northeastcoin.com; they usually have a decent inventory of USPI coins w/pictures.
"I not only use all the brains that I have, but all that I can borrow."
Woodrow Wilson (1856 - 1924)
Hello IloiloKano: Great little summary of the history of US Philippine coins. You've obviously read -- and thought -- a lot about them. It shows. And that peso looks beautiful.
Dear Jester1:
I haven't written to the dealer yet, but will ask him to send it to me so I can inspect it. I'll keep it if I like it. That's assuming he'll send it to me. He sends me coins when I'm in the states. In Bangkok is another story, and I'll just have to see.
Hello Chascoin69. Nice to meet you and your 1928-M centavo is one helluva a beautiful coin.
I do collect bronzes in red, but I've become increasing convinced that the US-Philippines can tone into red-browns or even an occasional brown that is spectacularly beautiful. I have a 1922 centavo in MS66 Brown (PCGS) that is spectacularly beautiful like yours. Not nearly as much red, indeed, a true brown, but beautiful satiny fields and just a great chocolate brown. Whew.
enjoy!
Just Having Fun
<< <i>
<< <i>I have read where there are far more gem 1904 10, 20 and 50 peso. I never seem to see any at shows. Anyone have a gem that they could share a picture? >>
bidask,
Yes, a 1904 coin is easier to find in gem. A 1904-S in gem is almost unheard of. If you want to check out some U.S. Philippine coins, go to northeastcoin.com; they usually have a decent inventory of USPI coins w/pictures. >>
How easy in MS? For example, a 50 cent 1904 has a pop 3 at NGC in 66 none in 65 and I think PCGS has 8 in 65, 5 in 66 and 1 in 67. I rarely see one in MS. I do see NEM has a Proof 66 pcgs offered at $1550.
I give away money. I collect money.
I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.
The 1907-S peso is a very common date in that condition and would probably sell close to bullion -- probably somewhere between $15 and $20.
Hi again, IloiloKano:
I mis-spoke on one of my earlier posts. I said the 1903-S peso was "a killer in any grade of unc." The "3" was a dumb typo on my part; should have been "5". The 1905-S peso is a killer in any grade of unc. It's particularly rare in choice unc. I'm fortunate enought to have found a few in MS63 before they got really expensive, and have never been offered one of a higher grade. The search for a higher grade than 63 is elusive. I hear rumors of one but it never materializes.
Warm regards from Bangkok
Just Having Fun
Please, no apologies for that beautiful 1928-M. The reverse that year is generally weakly struck, with the weakness showing up -- as it does on your beaut -- in the stars (which are usually mushy) and the chest feathers which are rarely full.
Regarding the price, the coin is not rare. A few rolls came on the market about 5 years ago, and I was able to scarf up a handful of gem reds on the cheap. So I know they're out there in Red.
Prices for the date have risen considerably muchsince then. I'd estimate the $60 you paid was a reasonable price for an ordinary 65 Red Brown. But a coin with so much eye appeal like yours would probably go for $100. But why sell an el cheapo when it offers you so much eye appeal? Keep it at home for gloating.
Warm regards,
Just Having Fun
Thanks for explaining the Zerbe factor which, of course, explains why the 1904 is so common in unc, despite it's low, low mintage. That's great stuff.
But one point of disagreement ... I always think of the side with Lady Liberty as the Obverse. Obverse or reverse, Lady Liberty is the side of the coin that gives these coins their populaity and beauty. It's comparable to the Walking Liberty Half Dollar, only even better done.
One old book put out by the Philippine Mint labeled the coins clearly: Obverse, Lady Liberty; reverse: shield. So the people who made the coins thought of Lady Liberty as the obverse. Indeed, you're the first collector I know who thinks of the eagle side as the obverse.
But obverse or reverse is triviata: Whichever side you want to call it, Lady Liberty with the hammer and anvil, and Mt Mayon in the background, is the side of the coin that gives these coins their extraordinary beauty.
Warm regards,
Just Having Fun
Good question about the 1904-S. My take on it is this: eBay can be a good venue for auctioning middle-of-the-road coins, but a rotten venue for a top coin. It takes two to tango, and if just one strong bidder shows up,an important coin can go begging.
And I didn't show up for the party. I already have the one 1904-S in MS 65. I have two in MS 64, and nine in MS 63. Do I really want another one? I don't think so.
Enjoy yourself,
Just Having Fun
I give away money. I collect money.
I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.
I would enjoy trying my hand at grading your coin. I plan to give it a shot, but can you clear up some details for me?
First, the Obverse...
1. There is a spot between Lady Liberty and the letters TA. What is that?
Is it a mark, slight (and unusually symetric) ding, perhaps a spot where maybe a bit of salt spray hit it, or something else?
2. Near the spot described above, about 10 o'clock above and to the left, is that a small non-distracting mark?
3. There appears to be three (maybe four) non-distracting marks in the field to the left of Liberty and above her arm. Is this assessment accurate?
4. On the left slope of Mt Mayan, is that a scratch that extends a bit into the field?
5. Just to the left of item 4, and another near the hem of Liberty's gown, lower right field, I think I detect a VERY minor dings. Correct?
Now, the reverse...
6. Is there a small patch of non-distracting marks in the right field near the top of the shield?
7. In the left field under the wing, I think there is a disturbance to the luster that has NOT left a mark in the metal. Correct?
8. In the top field, there is a fingerprint, but it is slight. Is this correct?
Am I correct in assessing that other than that which has been described, there is no other significant (even if slightly) departure from pristine.
Toning...
Obverse toning is appealing, but the reverse clearly exhibits exceptional eye appeal. If I missed something significant here, please inform me.
Strike...
On the obverse of your 20 centavos, compared to the 1904-S Peso images that I posted to this thread on June 3rd...
9. Hair above the ear - more, less or same detail?
10. Mt Mayan - more, less or same detail?
Pay particular attention to the lava flows on the volcano and plume definition from its peak.
11. Ground, anvil and stand - more, less or same detail?
Does the anvil stand detail definition extend all the way to the left edge? (Details for my peso image fall off towards that edge.)
12. Left forearm and hand - fully rounded or some flatness evident? If the latter, what about the left hand?
13. Left Breast, left thigh - fully rounded or some flatness evident?|
On the reverse...
14. Eagle Breast Feathers - more, less or same detail?
15. Horizontal shield lines - do they continue strongly all the way to the edge, or do they fade towards the edges?
16. Extreme wing tips - Do details extend all the way to the ends as in the 1904-S peso image?
Wear or rubbing...
Obverse - Carefully check the hair above the ear, left breast, left forearm / hand and left thigh. I didn't detect any from your image. Am I correct?
Reverse - Primarily on the eagle's breast. I didn't detect any. Correct?
Finally, this is very important, and there is no way anyone could tell from the image, is the coin a proof? The surface of the fields on the reverse appear to be either that of a proof coin, or one with proof like surfaces. Your coin is a Philadephia minted 1904 issue, so read USAROK's post to see why it is most important that I know. It could appear to be a proof at first glance, and actually be an early strike with proof like surfaces.
I take your request as a challenge, but as you can see, I need more information than what has been supplied.
Thanks for your post.
<< <i>Bidask,
I would enjoy trying my hand at grading your coin. I plan to give it a shot, but can you clear up some details for me?
First, the Obverse...
1. There is a spot between Lady Liberty and the letters TA. What is that?
Is it a mark, slight (and unusually symetric) ding, perhaps a spot where maybe a bit of salt spray hit it, or something else?
2. Near the spot described above, about 10 o'clock above and to the left, is that a small non-distracting mark?
3. There appears to be three (maybe four) non-distracting marks in the field to the left of Liberty and above her arm. Is this assessment accurate?
4. On the left slope of Mt Mayan, is that a scratch that extends a bit into the field?
5. Just to the left of item 4, and another near the hem of Liberty's gown, lower right field, I think I detect a VERY minor dings. Correct?
Now, the reverse...
6. Is there a small patch of non-distracting marks in the right field near the top of the shield?
7. In the left field under the wing, I think there is a disturbance to the luster that has NOT left a mark in the metal. Correct?
8. In the top field, there is a fingerprint, but it is slight. Is this correct?
Am I correct in assessing that other than that which has been described, there is no other significant (even if slightly) departure from pristine.
Toning...
Obverse toning is appealing, but the reverse clearly exhibits exceptional eye appeal. If I missed something significant here, please inform me.
Strike...
On the obverse of your 20 centavos, compared to the 1904-S Peso images that I posted to this thread on June 3rd...
9. Hair above the ear - more, less or same detail?
10. Mt Mayan - more, less or same detail?
Pay particular attention to the lava flows on the volcano and plume definition from its peak.
11. Ground, anvil and stand - more, less or same detail?
Does the anvil stand detail definition extend all the way to the left edge? (Details for my peso image fall off towards that edge.)
12. Left forearm and hand - fully rounded or some flatness evident? If the latter, what about the left hand?
13. Left Breast, left thigh - fully rounded or some flatness evident?|
On the reverse...
14. Eagle Breast Feathers - more, less or same detail?
15. Horizontal shield lines - do they continue strongly all the way to the edge, or do they fade towards the edges?
16. Extreme wing tips - Do details extend all the way to the ends as in the 1904-S peso image?
Wear or rubbing...
Obverse - Carefully check the hair above the ear, left breast, left forearm / hand and left thigh. I didn't detect any from your image. Am I correct?
Reverse - Primarily on the eagle's breast. I didn't detect any. Correct?
Finally, this is very important, and there is no way anyone could tell from the image, is the coin a proof? The surface of the fields on the reverse appear to be either that of a proof coin, or one with proof like surfaces. Your coin is a Philadephia minted 1904 issue, so read USAROK's post to see why it is most important that I know. It could appear to be a proof at first glance, and actually be an early strike with proof like surfaces.
I take your request as a challenge, but as you can see, I need more information than what has been supplied.
Thanks for your post. >>
IloiloKano, thank you for your detailed questions. You could be a professional coin grader!. Actually, I do not have the coin in hand to answer specifically your insightful and well thought out questions but I will say that except for some very minor ticks ( yes, pristine) this is an original toned coin that has a matched set in color with a 20c and 50c ( which I will post sometime). The coin is not a proof.
I give away money. I collect money.
I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.
I give away money. I collect money.
I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.
PCGS couldn't have told you what they graded the coin from the scans, so how could I? Anything I said would have been no more than a guess, just like PCGS's estimate.
I've cracked out an "Au 58" and gotten as MS 64. Well, the AU 58 was insane, but that's my point. But was the MS 64 right, or would 63 or 63 have been more comfortable. I was comfortable with a 64, but would you have been. I doubt it.
And I just saw a slew of rare date US Philippines -- and several of them were graded a point or two high. Again, if they can't tell what the grade is, in person, who am I -- or anyone else on these boards -- to tell from a scan. Can't be done.
This is one of the reasons I think the Registry Set game is a farce. Oh I play it. But I know it's a joke and just enjoy myself. You too.
Warm regards,
Just Having Fun
<< <i>Dear BidAsk:
PCGS couldn't have told you what they graded the coin from the scans, so how could I? Anything I said would have been no more than a guess, just like PCGS's estimate.
I've cracked out an "Au 58" and gotten as MS 64. Well, the AU 58 was insane, but that's my point. But was the MS 64 right, or would 63 or 63 have been more comfortable. I was comfortable with a 64, but would you have been. I doubt it.
And I just saw a slew of rare date US Philippines -- and several of them were graded a point or two high. Again, if they can't tell what the grade is, in person, who am I -- or anyone else on these boards -- to tell from a scan. Can't be done.
This is one of the reasons I think the Registry Set game is a farce. Oh I play it. But I know it's a joke and just enjoy myself. You too.
Warm regards,
Just Having Fun >>
Yes, the question I posed was guess the grade....was just meant to have fun! Hah!....The coin is already in a pcgs 65 holder.
I give away money. I collect money.
I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
I give away money. I collect money.
I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.
Wow, this is expensive for a modern coin. I know of ancient coins that
sell for these kind of prices (and even going up into the 250,000 USD range),
but have never heard of a modern coin being so much.
I guess it all depends upon the demand - if it is worth this amount to someone,
then this price can be obtained.
kindest regards,
B. Leon
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Some really good information in this thread.
DPOTD-3
'Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery'
CU #3245 B.N.A. #428
Don